Shoichi Aoki


Edition : First / Tokyo / Street / 1994-1998 / Softcover. / VG+
4to, 9 volumes, ca 64pp each. Printed wraps. Text in English and Japanese. Numerous colour plates.

Collections, and subsequently Contemporary fashion is what happened when Aoki started taking pictures inside shows as well as outside. The first issue has shows from Christopher Nemeth, Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garcons, Orson + Bodil and Westwood, plus a Nemeth interview. The publication has the same informal feel and eye as the Street magazine, and being the nineties is also much more ad-hoc than the equivalent today. There’s also a brilliant post show analysis part at the end, which is both incredible perceptive and very articulate. You really get the feeling that Aoki knew exactly what he was talking about. Very much a publication aimed at the insider when this type of fashion was more of a fringe interest. I have never seen a number 8 so presume this is all the issues that were published.

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