Disorder Incubation Isolation (Autumn/Winter 1999-2000)

Raf Simons


Edition : First / Antwerp / Privately Printed / 1998 / Softcover. / VG+ / VG+
30 x 30 cm, 23 12 x 12″ cards housed in record box. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates.

Eep. 9th season, the collection is shown in a Filmstudio ‘Studio Carrere’ on the Avenue du President Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm. A little group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the following words: DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION These words are important to describe the image of the collection, and it is also a memorial to Joy Division. The global idea of this collection is to make a reference to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so quickly that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes, especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a procession to create the right atmosphere. The most important part was a group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle shapes in three quarter length, a variety of design, an other group wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles. The colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain, black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the future. The music was in this part very fast. The blond group was wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white ‘R’ Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red ‘R’ Turtleneck.

See inside